Installation Instructions for
Power Crank for Yamaha
"Heart of the Friction Fighter Steering and
Thank you for purchasing your new "POWER CRANK". This is the finest
steering bellcrank that is made. It is lighter by 25%, it is stronger,
it eliminates the play normally associated with the belicrank, and it
The "POWER CRANK" is made from aircraft quality 4130 chrome moly
steel, TIG welded, stress relieved, heat treated and is epoxy powder
coated. The bearing is an oversize full length needle roller with a
precision ground inner race that is fully greasable. It has been
designed so that the thrust washers seal out the elements but allow
enough clearance so that grease can pass through.
As with any performance oriented product, the full benefits can
only be realized if the other parts of the assembly are in proper
order. This bellcrank eliminates all the play normally found in the
stock steering arm. It is to your advantage to make sure the other
components in the front suspension and steering are set properly and
are not worn out! BEFORE YOU TAKE THIS APART, LOOK AT IT! All of the
components are assembled as they will be on your sled.
- "POWER CRANK"
- Needle roller bearing(s) with inside race (installed)
- Thrust washers ---- 2 (1/2" x 1 1/2")
- New shorter pivot bolt
- Rod end spacers-3
1. Lift up the front of the sled and support it by the front
bumper. (Jack stands work well for this.)
la. Remove exhaust if necessary. Usually only the 700.
2. Remove the 3 bolts that secure the tie rod and drag link ends
from the bellcrank. (Notice whether the rod ends mount on top side of
the bellcrank or the bottom. The drag link rod end is normally on the
top side, but sometimes the tie rod ends are mounted on the bottom
side depending upon the model. Make a note so the pieces are assembled
in the proper order.) Remove the center bolt and remove the assembly.
This model of Power Crank for the Yamaha 700 SX and the 600 SX and XTC
is set up for using high performance rod ends and all three of the rod
ends mount from underneath and use the thin standoff spacers between
the rod end the bottom of the Power Crank.
3. Check the condition of all the rod ends at this time and replace
if they are worn. (The better aviation grade last much longer than the
4. Take some grease from your grease gun, remove the inner race
from the bearing and pack the inner rollers of the bearing with
grease. After greasing, put the inner race back in place.
5. The thrust washers are the same, take either of them and install
on the center bolt.
6. Slide the "POWER CRANK and bearing assembly over the bolt next.
Next, slide the other thrust washer over the bolt, install assembly
7. Tighten the bolt until it is tight against the upper washer, Put
grease in the grease fitting while turning the "PO\VER CRANK" from
side to side. Pump in enough so that the grease comes out top and
bottom around the thrust washers. Wipe away the excess. If you ride in
a lot of powder, you should grease more frequently. Also, grease the
"Power Crank" before putting the sled away for the season.
8. Install the tie rod ends and the drag link end. Double check
everything to make sure that it is tight.
9. Set the toe on the skis at this time. Use the settings as
described in the owners manual or the shop manual of 0-- 1/8" toe out
as measured from the center of the wear bar carbide front to rear.
10. If, after many miles, some wear should occur to the thrust
washers, new thrust washers are available from your supplier at a
minimal cost, as well as pivot bolt.
ENJOY THIS, PLEASE REALIZE THAT THIS IS ONLY A PART OF A SYSTEM OR
CONCEPT AND TO GET THE MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE, THE WHOLE SYSTEM SHOULD BE